Experience (and advice) of mining on a custom asica

Experience (and advice) of mining on a custom asica

Hello Dear coders colleagues (20 elderly seniors, 40 elderly typists, and other bunch of tyrants), today I will talk about the intricacies of customizing asics, using the example of a custom ant miner ES 9 (what a cosplay gaming computer).

And first of all, I would like to congratulate all “cryptobusinessmen” on the upcoming halving, I wish everyone to go to work at the factory and get busy.

looks terribly stylish, but it’s not worth it

More to the point, recently the second hash board still came to me (after 2.5 months), and I (after all) finished assembling my custom asik, rolled a v-niche on it, in addition to this, I updated the krutelators (thankfully, the stock arctics on KFM, spoiler there is no 60KFM, but for that they cost me 2 eurekas each), and after a little work with a file and a saw (I literally) “finished” the case to an “acceptable” state.

And looking ahead, I will answer the most important question, “does it make sense to put this bandura in a collective hospital?”, and it does, in addition to the fact that the main problem (the noise of a plane taking off) disappears like a terrible dream, and the asik can be kept calmly, if not in the bedroom, then in pantry (I have a dressing room, there is a door from the bed and two meters to the sink).

In addition to the lack of noise and “stylishness”, Asik finds another protein – overclocking. In my case, one board from the Jay mod and one board from the usual ES 9 serve as the base of the asic, and the popular myth that boards from different asic mods of the same model do not start is just a myth (I am more than sure that different hash boards of the same manufacturer will also work together, as they all have Linux).

speed from two hash boards, but the asik is on the balcony, although the hash rate is not stable, but rate this “famous danced”

How many and what modifications were made?

First replacing the stock axles with a V-niche for the boost and exhaust, secondly, I extended the wires of the power supply unit and data cable (this is not a joke, I really collected the wires, cut them, added a piece of wiring for the audio system from the car, and alternately rewound each one with each other ( 9x2x2 = 36 ties) I also removed the krutelator from the block itself and put this fucking Arctic on top (removing the cover of the feeder block), crimping two screws and crypto-insulating tape.

Also, instead of the case, he used an old mini Atiix, in which he first bit off everything that melts the air flow with nippers with pincers (this is really the biggest problem in the computer case), he pulled 4 twisters on each of the boards (and this is still not enough, all 120 , one at an honest 90kfm, another at +-70, and other arctic ones), plus 3 more lgbt crutelators in the case so that direct collective farm vaids still climb (in fact, I also have 1 meter of lgbt tape, but I haven’t pushed it yet became, because there was already a collective farm there too).

Well, a special plug for the krutelators connectors (on the board), in fact, it is enough to push 2 four-pin processor krutelators there, any, the main thing is that they spin, or completely disable the krutelators check in the firmware.

The body also went through several stages of kolhosping, a window was cut out (at first it was not there lol), and I also made special “ribs” so that the hash boards lay on top of each other, but had a gap (this was the hardest part after “removing unnecessary silencers from the body ” air flow).

If someone has a desire to do something like this, I warn you right away that you need a full tower, nothing will fit in the mini attics, there are too many wires on the power supply unit, if anyone noticed the control card is located on the side (the local cable will stick out straight from the window you can of course push it lengthwise, but I have krutellators there, and this thing wants to climb forward all the time), because it does not fit in its size because of the wires.

potato rear view (like if you remembered the link)

Base for overclocking, I excremented a lot with overclocking, but for high-quality overclocking (compared to dropsy), 140mm krutellators are best, they are very powerful, and after blowing a straight top (maybe better, so take note), I only have one standing on blown from behind (if visible). In addition to crutelators, I have air circulation suction from the center (from the window) and after blowing in both directions from the sides, also another important problem is the drying of the lubricant, if there is no gap between the radiators and the cooler (I had to lubricate them at least once every 1.5 months), the lubricant will dry out, the rotors will make noise, and melt. At least the custom cooling copes with its task and even allows overclocking.

A little more about “European arctics” and Chinese but neim lgbt krutellators from alic, at first I generally hoped that the Chinese ones would cope (I hoped for the declared 50 kfm), quite often when “tampering” with the asik I put my fingers in the blade of a working cooler, despite the fact that Chinese coolers should be worse , they didn’t break when fingers hit them, while the “quality” arctics just broke off the blade from hitting the finger (because of which I lost two krutellators), also all these coolers have a blow force rating below the declared, so you need to use multi-blade processors coolers, or block 140mm coolers, they almost always show their performance (in general, the modern trend towards quiet lgbt coolers has had a bad effect on their quality).

In the process of overclocking experiments I lost two percent on one of the boards. happened with a load of only 550 W on the board, but it was in the cabinet (in a warm room with my coolers, the maximum overclocking was 5trxh on the card and 11trxh on the balcony, now (in a fully assembled case) I made the minimum base speed (3.3trxh) At the same time, the asik still spends in the assembly (but tolerably so).

This is how the asik looked in the pre-alpha depol test debug version (with one board and a half-naked case, the cooling efficiency is much higher than in the assembled case, as is the speed)

Fortunes by temperature they don’t work for me (they never worked, apparently the controller calculated based on the speed of rotation of the coolers and the amount of voltage supplied), but I read in tirnets that if you can’t hold your finger on something hot for more than 2 seconds, then the temperature is clearly above 60 degrees ) , respectively, indoors (in a closet), my asik works stably in the region of 65-70 degrees at a speed of 4.5-6trhsh.

I also noticed that it is not the radiator on the processor itself that heats up more, but the radiator under the processor (it is small on the other side of the board, so the most powerful krutelators should be placed exactly on the back of the board (on the side where there are more radiators), and after blowing in this place, make it suitable (I noticed that my blower twisters slow down, retain heat inside the asic housing, so it makes sense to simply blow through).

I also tried different locations of the cards in the case, vertical and longitudinal for one board, this option (which is now on the photo) is the most optimal, but it makes sense to also cut off the back plug in the case, or not use the case at all (I put the boards on cardboard triangles, and separated them as far as possible from each other).

config for the current assembly (in a complete case), the maximum minimum, it even makes sense to reset to 450 MHz

Another advantage this is that in the worst frosts, an asik in a closet will always warm you up (especially if your closet also plays the role of a server room for a full-sized server station), in general, you should take care not only of good coolers, but also of a good (cold) room to get a good speed.

I don’t know how hot it is in the closet, the clothes dry there within an hour (from washing, ironing, jeans and hoodies, it’s very hot in there)

And at the end a little more about network tying, and the myth about the impossibility of ASIC operation from a mobile network, in my case, the entire Internet goes from a mobile phone wirelessly to a Chinese repeater, and from the repeater via a wire to a router to which the ASIC is connected (it is possible without a router, just I also have a vpn server (in general, the myth that the provider blocks ports on a mobile phone has nothing to do with asics, because connection and data transfer takes place by contacting the site, for example, stratum+tcp://sha256asicboost.auto. nicehash.com. the connection with the asik looks to the provider like a simple opening of porn in the browser.

I will sum up:
Does it make sense to customize asik -> yes it does
Does custom cooling help -> and it does
Is there potential for overclocking -> yes, with caveats (good cranks and a powerful block)
Is it worth it -> no, it’s not worth it, my mother told me that I’m the smartest, that’s why I create holy game
Does mining pay off -> no, but with caveats (since I live in Finland, electricity (although Finland buys electricity in Russia lol) is much cheaper for me than in Russia)
Why am I writing an article on this again trash can to the respected, best and most popular ay ti (pff) resource in Russia -> I want to brag about my asik, because I am the smartest, strongest, and most beautiful, and you are a cuckold (‘_’) <- and I also invented this emoticon
Is it better than a noisebox -> much better (in my opinion, but still the whistle processing is not enough)

Finally, a large photo (it is best to do this for a revenue board, starting from 200trhsh, any M53, etc. in ascending order):

How beautiful he is

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